THE WINE: Cavazza Selva 2003

It takes goodness and a lot of patience to become a saint

by Angelo Sabbadin

This month, we have decided to spend some time getting to know a rare dessert wine. Vin Santo di Gambellara is the only vin santo (saint's wine) produced in the Veneto region and was awarded D.O.C. recognition in 1970. Vin Santo di Gambellara is considered a vino da pazienza, a wine requiring patience, because it ages well, easily up to fifty years. The area of production for this wine borders Soave to the West and includes the communes of Gambellara, Montebello, Montorso and Zermeghedo. The unique vinification process of this wine begins with the careful selection of garganega grapes directly from the vine.  The appassimento phase begins once the bunches are then hung to dry in rows called picai. Compared to drying grapes by laying them flat in stacked drawers, this system allows for air to circulate between the fruit, preventing the growth of harmful mold due to excess humidity. The only downfall of this wine is that it is produced in such small quantities that it is hard to find outside Venice or Milan. Traditionally, the hand pressing of the grapes takes place during the Holy Week. The must is then left to ferment and mature for three years in small, 228 liter, oak barrels. The wine is typically amber in color, similar to the hue of oak wood, and the consistency is almost viscous. On the nose, the wine revels aromas of toasted almond, fig and apricot jam, candied dates, coffee, bee's wax and barley candy. In the mouth, it is warm, creamy and well balanced with a long finish. Only produced in the top vintages, Vin Santo Classico D.O.C “Selva” 2003 made by Agricola Cavazza was released to the market a couple of weeks ago. We suggest drinking this wine slowly while listening to good music. Certainly Mario Biondi's new album “IF” would pair nicely with this precious amber liquid.